As Promised

Ok, so this post was going supposed to go up a few days ago, but just as I was completing it, Blogger went all wacky and deleted it completely. So I got very discouraged. But I'm back now and have so much to show and tell! I've moved from Cairo to Alexandria, which is quite an adjustment. The cities are very different, as are the living conditions. Alexandria is much quieter, cleaner, slower and more relaxed. But the dorms here are pretty sparse. Like no hot water or toilet paper sparse. It will definitely take some getting used to, but it already seems better than it did when we first arrived.

Anyway, this post is actually about my last few days in Cairo. So much happened that I am going to do two separate posts, one for the things I did and saw and one for the things I ate. Trust me, that last category deserves a post of its own.

On Monday our group traveled to Sakkara and Giza to see Egypt's most popular tourist attraction; the pyramids. First stop: Sakkara, home of the Step Pyramid of King Djoser. It is easy to see where it got its name:

That is me in front of the step pyramid!

Sakkara is considered the "countryside" of Cairo. That is to say, there are still cars piled on top of each other, buildings lining the roads, and hawkers on the street trying to sell you goods. However, donkey carts can be seen next to the double and triple parked cars, the buildings probably don't have roofs or sometimes even four walls, and the vendors are more likely selling fruits and vegetables rather than hookahs and belly dancing outfits. There are also tons of carpet schools, but more on that later.

As you approach the pyramids of Sakkara, one of the most striking things you will notice is that on one side of the road is a deep, lush forest of date palms and on the other side of the road there is nothing but dessert and sand. The Nile has provided fertile soil for Egypt, but only in about 5% of the land. The other 95% is pretty much unlivable. Which is why 90% of the population of Egypt lives on only 5% of the land. The contrast between the land touched by the rich waters of the Nile and the land that is not is stark. That said, one of the things that I have been most surprised about since I arrived in Egypt is how green it is. Despite hearing constantly about the excessive urbanization of Cairo, palm trees line the streets and green parks can be found throughout the city. Outside the city, you can see scenes like this:

The dates will be ripest at the end of September!

Aside from the oldest pyramid in Egypt, Sakkara is known for its beautiful handmade carpets. The children in this area are sent to one of the many carpet schools to learn the trade and to bring in extra money for the family. Children as young as eleven can be found in basements of these schools, weaving intricate carpets from silk, wool, and the finest Egyptian cotton. Their labor in this field is highly valued (although I'm sure you wouldn't know it from their compensation) because their small fingers allow them to work very quickly. The speed and concentration with which these young kids work on such a tedious and intricate task is both impressive and difficult. On the one hand, these children should be out playing and learning math and history. On the other hand, it is a testament to the conditions of life in this country that this work is necessary for many families to survive.

This boy showed us how the knots were made and let me tie one on this carpet!

An example of the quantity and quality of the rugs being made

After Sakkara, we went to Giza to see the Great Pyramids. These are the pyramids we have grown up seeing pictures of in history books and on postcards. They seem so familiar and the frequency with which we see them is so great, that the images almost become mundane. Until you are there in person. Seeing these massive structures in real life is truly a unique experience. The sheer size of these awesome monuments is incomprehensible and inexplicable. The tallest is over 140 meters. There are over two million blocks in each pyramid, the smallest weighing 2 tons, the largest, 20. Just one of these pyramids clocks in at a whopping 16 million tons. Words cannot describe. Pictures cannot depict. That said, here are some photos I took:

See the black hole at the bottom? That is where I climbed to. It is higher than it looks and the furthest you are allowed to climb.

As promised.

I know it is cliche, but it was a lot of fun!

Again, I warned you this was coming!

On Tuesday, we went to visit the citadel and the mosque of Muhammad Ali (not the boxer). The citadel is an old fortress built by Saladin to protect Cairo from the crusaders. It was completed in 1184 AD.

The Saladin Citadel

In the same location is the mosque of the great ruler Muhammad Ali, considered to be the father of the modern Egyptian era (despite his not being Egyptian!). His story is an interesting one. Arriving in Egypt as an Algerian soldier of the Ottoman army, he succeeded in convincing the people of Egypt to support him as Governor. With the help of the Mamluks, he amassed an army and managed to drive the Ottomans out of Egypt, becoming the King. After using the Mamluks to defeat the Ottomans, Ali knew the only thing which could threaten his position of power was an uprising from the them. Therefore, he invited all the Mamluk leaders to a celebration at the citadel. When they arrived, they were locked in the fortress and massacred, thereby securing Ali's position as head of Egypt until his son took over due to his senility and failing health in old age. Although no longer used as a mosque today, it is still a popular attraction for both tourists and Egyptians alike.

Outside of Muhammad Ali Mosque

Inside of Muhammad Ali Mosque

Tomorrow I take a placement test to determine what level of Arabic I will be taking for the next 3 and a half months, so the rest of the night will probably be devoted to reviewing, but check back soon for a post about the amazing Arabian bites I had while experiencing these amazing Arabian sights!